Box Tie Rope Bondage

Sometimes referred to as a “simplified takate kote,” the Box Tie takes its name from the box-shaped arm position the Bottom holds when bound. This version of the Box Tie allows for a fairly swift release of the hands if circulation is lost, without the entire chest harness having to be undone.

The Bottom will need to be able to have their inner wrists (or better yet, their inner forearms) overlap to create the Box Tie. If the Bottom is able to have their hands reach the opposite elbow, they should not “lock” their thumbs into their opposite “elbow-pit.” Not every person can hold this specific pose, but the same stylistic effect can be achieved by tying a Basic Chest Harness and then using a One-Column Tie to pull each wrist upward.

This tie was done with two 30ft (10 meter) lengths of 6mm jute. For larger frames you may need up to 120ft (35 meters).

Tie wrists as single one-column tie.

Tie a One-Column Tie around both wrists. The cuff shown here should be loose enough to give the Bottom space to wiggle around if they get uncomfortable. Doing so allows for some reduction of circulation and nerve concerns.

Wrap torso under breasts and over arms.

Wrap the doubled line around the torso and upper arms with the ropes just under the breasts or pectoral mass.

Make a lark’s head.

Tuck the ends underneath the line that comes up from the wrist, then pull the ends back in the direction that they came from. Continue to pull until the line from the wrist creates a straight line up the spine to create the “box” shape.

Wrap a second time under breasts.

Lay the second set of lines above the first set, just underneath the breasts. Lift the breasts to keep any skin from catching if needed.

Create second lark’s head.

When you come back to the first lark’s head, you will see that by wrapping a second time, you have created a new loop that rope can be tucked through. Pull the ends through this loop, then pull up and back in the direction the line came from, creating reverse tension. These lower two wraps should be near the halfway point on the upper arm, reducing the chance of nerve pressure.

Repeat steps 4 and 5 twice above breast.

Add rope if needed, then wrap just above the breast. Tuck ends through the newest loop and pull in the direction the line came from. Wrap a fourth time, just above the third wrap, and tuck the ends through the newest loop and pull in the direction the line came from. The fourth wrap should line up with or near the armpit in front.

Tie off wraps.

Tie a half hitch around all four sets of chest ropes.

Over shoulder and under lower wraps.

Choose a shoulder, any shoulder. In my example, I chose the right shoulder. Tuck the ends underneath the two sets of lower wraps and pull the lines through.

Snug and drop ends over other shoulder.

Create a decorative twist in the front of the chest harness by bringing the rope up on the side of the body that you came from (in this case, the right side of the body) before tucking it under the rope you just laid. Having done so, drop the ends over the other shoulder.

Tie off shoulder straps.

Tuck the ends underneath all four sets of wraps and pull through. Add additional rope as needed at any point during this bondage, unless the knot will be placed on a tender part of the body such as between the torso and underarm. Pull the line upwards, and tie a half hitch around both sets of shoulder straps. Pull tight.

Split and run line between arm and torso.

Take one strand run it to the left while running the other and to the right, just below the four sets of wraps that went around the torso. Use the gap at the “elbow-pit” to have less friction as you pull through.

Tuck line between upper and lower torso wraps.

Pull the end of the line up into the space between the doubled sets of torso wraps. Pull the line back down, creating pressure on the lower sets of torso wraps as you pass the line back through the elbow pit. If working with someone that might slip the upper sets of torso wraps off over their shoulders, the line can be pulled under both sets of doubled wraps.

Tuck ends underneath shoulder straps.

Tuck the line that ran underneath the left arm under the shoulder straps from left to right. Tuck the line that ran underneath the right arm under the shoulder straps from right to left.

Tie a square knot.

Tie a square knot around the shoulder straps. Feel free to add an extra hitch on top of the square knot if you’re using a slippery line.

Catch the One-Column loop.

When you tied the One-Column Tie in step 1, a small loop was left exposed. Run your extra rope down through the loop before bringing the line back up. Unless this loop is caught and brought up, the wraps around the torso could tighten if the Bottom’s hands drop.

Wrap a whole lot.

In this example, I wrapped the ends around the shoulder straps before tying off with a square knot and tucking the ends away. The finished product should appear similar to this on the back, side, and front.

But what should I do if their hands fall asleep?

If your Bottom reports numbness in their hands, you can release the hands without undoing the harness. Untie anything that attaches the shoulder or torso lines to the wrist tie, untie the wrist cuffs and let the hands go—the rest of the bondage can stay in place. If you want to put your Bottom back in the same pose after their circulation returns, just re-tie the wrist cuff—voila!— you’re back in business.

Sometimes the original position isn’t an option any more. Consider tying their hands in front instead, using a Two-Column Tie in front of their belly, attaching the wrists to one another. You can also attach their wrists to their upper thigh using a Two-Column Tie on each side for another variation. Have fun with it, and see what works for their body and your desires alike.